Lonely Planet Egypt (12th Edition)
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Pyramids, ancient temples, camels: everything you ve seen on the postcards is true. But the full picture of Egypt includes beautiful beaches, the megacity of Cairo and the Egyptians themselves.
Logistics: are these two things really far apart? I have been a fan of wikivoyage and wikitravel. I love using my LP book for the city overviews, transportation information, weekly trip suggestions, and the brief history lessons for each site or city — however rarely do I reliably use the hotels or food suggestions. Want to share your tips and advice? Super interesting, Matt!
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About this book Pyramids, ancient temples, camels: everything you ve seen on the postcards is true. Travel Guide Out of Print.
Egypt, why to go now
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More Info. Reasons for this are hard to find. Last year was a turbulent one for Egyptians, with the downfall of President Mohamed Morsi and his government and the violent dispersal of Muslim Brotherhood demonstrations by Egypt's security services sparking violent protests.
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But none of the tumult was aimed at foreigners, which was why, even though demonstrations and sporadic anti-military violence continue, the Foreign Office has no objection to our travelling to Cairo, Luxor and the south. But visitors have been nervous since , when former President Hosni Mubarak was forced from office, and they have been slow to return to the capital or along the Nile. The situation was made worse a month ago when a jihadist group bombed a bus of Korean tourists in Taba, north Sinai.
The Foreign Office has put Taba, Dahab and Nuweiba on the "avoid all travel" list, but Sharm el-Sheikh, the biggest of the Sinai resorts, at the southern tip of the peninsula, is still considered safe to visit, and direct flights are still available. Besides, Taba is several hundred miles from Cairo and the Nile, and the problem there is very different from the stand-off between the military and the Muslim Brotherhood.
Staying away from Egypt because of what is happening in Sinai would be similar to avoiding London because of trouble in Belfast, and yet tourist numbers have plummeted. The extent of this collapse in tourism was apparent the moment I boarded the Egyptair flight in London. Online check-in had made it look as though the flight was full — as it would have been in March four years ago — but the plane was half-empty. Cairo is such a fantastically vibrant city that it can be impossible to gauge the presence of foreigners, but there were only a handful of tourist minibuses at the Pyramids, no other foreigners at the Sphinx and we had the Tutankhamun galleries and the rest of the Egyptian Museum to ourselves.
A line of around 20 armoured vehicles parked ou tside the museum, with a soldier at each gun and watched by men from several police vans wrapped in barbed wire, made me wonder if they knew something that I — and the FCO — did not. The Museum sits on the edge of Tahrir Square, once famous for its traffic jams, now better known for anti-government demonstrations.
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But the square remained calm, the visit to the museum eerily quiet. Luxor was just as good — or bad, depending on your point of view — because while an empty Valley of the Kings may be brilliant for those of us who enjoy looking at decorated tombs without being harassed by hordes of day-trippers from the Red Sea, revenue from 20 or so visitors the morning I was there is not enough to pay for the lighting of the tombs, nor to put food in the mouths of the guards and hawkers and their families.
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Thanks to the efforts of the energetic and enthusiastic tourism minster, Hisham Zaazou, the ban was lifted last November, but the crowds have not returned. They have now disappeared because there is no one for them to pester. The traders who once made it impossible to walk through Luxor souk no longer harangue you as you pass.
Have a nice day. Which brings me back to the Nile and this second "nice" day afloat. Egypt is as stunning as ever to visit — especially this week as freak rains have just washed the dust of many years off the countryside, leaving the blue sky, the green palm trees, the cream temple walls and the sandstone hills more brilliant than ever.