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With both pieces in place, drive several nails into the plywood Finally, remove the nails before taking the panel up. Simple Jig for Compound Miters The traditional method for making compound miters is on the table saw with the miter gauge angled and the blade tilted. This procedure can be tricky and involves referring to a chart for the correct angles to set the miter gauge and the blade.
I was able to use this simpler technique for a recent project.
Now I use it all the time. Auxiliary Fence — To make the cut, begin by fastening an auxiliary fence to the miter gauge. The top. To prevent the molding piece from sliding up during the cut, clamp a small stop block to the auxiliary fence so it rests on the top edge of the molding. Tip the workpiece to the correct incline with both edges flat and bring it up tight. Then push the workpiece through the blade Fig. If the molding can be cut by holding it against an auxiliary fence this way, the cut is likely to be much more accurate than the old-fashioned compound miter procedure.
There are several ways to join a shelf to the side of a cabinet. Tongue and Dado — The tongue and dado joint lower photo looks better because it hides any gap above the tongue of the shelf.
Another benefit is that it also covers up any splintering along the edges of the dado. You can also center or off-set the tongue. Use these holes to jig saw. Cut to within To help prevent chipout, But a lot of woodworkers will admit to having goofed at this supposedly simple task a few times. A piece of stock ends up too short, not straight, or out of square. So now I have a simple routine that I follow when cutting stock to size on the table saw.
For example, doors, drawers, or case parts. So this is how I like to approach cutting parts to size. Just size the pieces that you need for the job at hand. Cut List — Before you start cutting, you need a goal. And for me, this is a cut list. I jot down a list of the parts that I need to cut and their dimensions thickness, length, and width. If you have a lot of pieces to cut, check them off the list as you go. Reference Edge.
To get started right, you need one straight and square edge to work from. I just try not to skimp here. One Straight, Square Edge — With the roughsized pieces in hand, the next goal is to give each piece one straight and square edge. This edge will guide your first rip cut. A straightline rip jig on the table saw, a handplane or a pass over the jointer will do the job. Before moving on, make a quick check with a straightedge and square and then mark the straightened edge box below left.
I never try to hit the final dimension right on the money. The purpose is just to make sure that both long edges are straight and parallel. This leaves enough material to allow you to come back later and clean up this face — eliminating saw marks, burn marks, or tearout from crosscutting. One Square End — Once you have two straight edges, begin cutting the piece to length by making a clean, square crosscut on one end. Be sure to leave yourself enough length for the final cut. The ends of the workpieces are often where the joinery takes place.
And the key to accurate crosscuts is control of the workpiece. For this I rely on a miter gauge with a long auxiliary fence Step Two.
This gives you a solid backing for the workpiece that allows a controlled feed and limits tearout. A smooth, steady feed produces the best crosscuts. A mark on the squared end will help keep things straight see main photo. Cut To Length — Now you can make the final crosscut to length. Door rails and stiles, and face frame parts are a good example. A stop block on the miter gauge can be adjusted as you sneak up on the length of the measured piece, as shown in Step Three.
The length of the pieces that follow will be exactly the same. The Final Edge — At this point your workpiece is cut to length and has one clean, square edge. A light rip cut removes the extra width and cleans the final edge, as you can see in Step Four and the main photo. At this point, the workpieces are square and true to size. But the best thing is that you can move on with one less thing to worry about. With the straight, square edge against the fence, rip the workpiece close to its final width.
The extra width allows you to clean up this face with the final cut. SSquare One End. Once you have two straight and parallel edges, you can begin crosscutting the workpiece to length. Start with a square, trim cut across one end of the piece. FFinal Length. A second crosscut on the opposite end gives you the final length.
An auxiliary miter gauge fence with a stop block clamped to it makes multiple cuts quick and accurate. CClean Rip. With the piece cut to length, a light rip pass on the face you cut in step one, gives you the final dimension.
Any saw marks, burn marks, or tearout will be removed. Getting Clean Cuts In Plywood When crosscutting a plywood panel, the bottom layer of veneer often splinters out along the cut line. But there are some steps you can take to prevent this from happening. The more teeth per inch, the cleaner the cut. Combination Blade — But if you only have a combination blade, there are a few tricks you can use to get a clean cut.
First, if the blade is crusted with sawdust or pitch, clean it thoroughly. Sometimes, however, even a clean combination blade will splinter the veneer. There are two reasons for this. Secondly, the cutting edge of the teeth may be pushing the veneer down rather than slicing it off.
Blade Height — One way to avoid this is to change the cutting angle of the teeth by raising or lowering the blade. If your panel is splintering on the bottom, lower the blade. Scoring Cut — The most common way to get a clean cut is to score the panel along the cut line before making the cut Fig. To do this, cut through the veneer layer with a sharp utility knife.
Scoring On the Saw — An easier way to score the panel is to use the saw blade itself. The trick is to make the cut in two passes. On the first pass, set the blade just high enough to cut through the veneer Fig. Then raise the blade and finish the cut on the second pass. To help ensure the workpiece stays aligned with the blade during both cuts, you can clamp an extension fence with a stop block to your miter gauge Fig. Backer Board — Another way to keep the veneer from splintering is to use a backer board Fig. This way the veneer layer is supported and can be cut cleanly.
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Safe Cuts With a Miter Block To protect the mitered edges of a workpiece when cutting slots for splines, I use a scrap block with an angled slot in it Fig. Run the block across the blade with the same face against the fence. To cut the spline kerf in a mitered workpiece, fit the sharp edge of the mitered panel into the slot Fig. Then, put the block against the fence and set the blade to the right height Fig. Finally, cut the kerf in the workpiece with the block riding along the fence.
Shop-Made Outfeed Support Roller This shop-made outfeed support roller can be secured in the jaws of a portable workbench see photo or clamped to a sawhorse. I made the brackets. The longer half of each bracket extends down the face of the plywood and serves as a stop to set the height of the support see photo. I used the roller from an old copy machine.
Give me a break. It keeps the bit a uniform distance from the edge being chamfered. I loved a lot of the shops but I don have specific recommendations because I just wandered in and out of them. Finally, cut the kerf in the workpiece with the block riding along the fence. Scoring Cut — The most common way to get a clean cut is to score the panel along the cut line before making the cut Fig. Opinion by the Rev. Second Solution — The second method is to add an auxiliary base to.